Wednesday the 19th of May, our hearts were bouncing a little bit faster than usual. A 6-8ft 11 second swell was arriving at the coast of Bretagne. Hungry for epic waves we (Jouke and I) called all our surffriends, trying to fill a van with at least four people. Deadline for departure would be 2300, at 2130 we got a crew of four (Jan Jaap and Kiril joined us). At 2245 we got our fifth member: Anton! With a little delay, leaving at midnight, we drove to Bretagne. No map, no food, no toothbrush. Our minds set on epic surf the next day, we took the scenic route via Calais… an extra 100 kilometers. After a thirteen hour drive, we arrived at La Torche. We got out of the van and ran to the coast. We saw nice 8 foot waves with much power and got in the water for a refreshing session! We decided to buy a barbecue for 13 euros at the Carrefour supermarket, money well spent! That night we ate jummy surfburgers on real French baguettes!
The next day we woke up late, needing our sleep to get fit again. In the afternoon I had a great session at La Torche. It was a bit crowded, but I got on Jan Jaap’s 7’6″ and surfed on 200 meter long lefthanders. My longest rides ever. In the evening we decided to explore the area to find an uncrowded spot to surf in the evening and the next day. We drove along the coast and checked out several spots. Most of them weren’t working at all! We drove a little further until we arrived at a bay called Baie de Trépassés, which translates to Bay of the Death. It got it’s name because of the colder water temperatures. The place looked more like the Bay of the Gods. It was magical! Jouke and I decided to go for a evening session. The water was very clear and refreshing. The waves were small but powerful. Seeing the sun shine through the waves was beautiful. Much better than the brown mud of the North Sea we usually surf in in Holland.
The next day, a new portion of swell arrived. The waves got bigger and the bay was on! I surfed mostly righthanders trying to get better at surfing on my backside, but also caught some beautiful lefthanders. The rest of the crew was also ripping and all day long we surfed! In the evening, the swell got less and less. We almost decided to go home, but first felt we had to check out La Torche again. Arriving there, we saw that the swell arrived much better and decided to stay another night, drink some beer and get up early for a dawn patrol session!
The early morning session was superb! Only a few people out at La Torche and the waves were very clean. Up to about 6ft in the sets, the long lefts were great to practice generating speed on a wave. Late morning, early afternoon, the spot got filled up by sunday longboarders, which made it a lot harder to catch a good wave without dropping in or getting dropped in. The waves also got smaller and smaller. Therefore we decided to drive back to The Netherlands.
This was definitely my best short surftrip ever. Four days of clean, near perfect waves, in a row! It will be hard to get used to the Dutch waves again…